What are Geta? 16 Things to Know about Japanese Sandals

by Michele Tanabe | CRAFT, LIFESTYLE

It’s not unusual to see people walking through the streets of Tokyo elegantly dressed in kimono, and next time you do, pay attention to their feet. If you look down you will probably see a pair of geta. In fact, the click-clack of the wooden sandal, is a quintessential part of Japanese summer.

With a number of different shapes, styles and ways to wear, geta are much more than just a way to complete your summer outfit. Let’s take a look into the world of geta, the shoe that is often heard well before they are seen!

Contents

1. What are Geta?
2. What are the Different Types of Geta?
3. What is the Difference Between Geta and Zori Sandals?
4. How are Geta Made?
5. What to Wear with Geta?
6. Can You Wear Geta Without Socks?
7. Are Geta Sandals Formal or Casual?
8. What Outfits Pair Well with Geta Sandals?
9. Are Japanese Geta Comfortable?
10. How to Walk in Geta?
11. Are Geta Sandals Good for Your Feet?
12. Are There Modern Versions of Geta Sandals?
13. Are There Indoor Versions of Geta Sandals?
14. Where to Buy Japanese Geta?
15. How Do I Choose the Right Size for Geta Sandals?
16. How Can I Care For and Maintain Geta Sandals?

1. What are Geta?

Geta with Dragon Motif, 19th Century, Museo della Calzatura di Villa Foscarini Rossi

Japanese geta are a form of traditional Japanese footwear, usually made from wood. Design-wise, you could say geta sit somewhere between a beach flip-flop and a Dutch clog!

Most geta are comprised of one board of solid wood on top, the dai, with two smaller pegs, on the bottom, situated closer to the front of the shoe. The pegs are known as ha, meaning tooth. Geta are worn much like a beach sandal or flip-flip, with a fabric thong, a hanao, sitting between the wearer’s big toe and second toe.

Originally geta were created with practicality in mind: their raised design lifting the wearer above dirt, water and even snow. Throughout Japanese history, up until the early 20th century, geta were one of the most common forms of footwear, worn by people of all ages. With such a long history, the geta has taken on many different different forms and styles.

The shape of these 19th century geta is similar to those you might see in the streets today. These ones however are quite special as they feature some incredibly ornate dragon shaped carving. Made from thick and rustic balsa wood, and finished with grey ostrich upper on the thong strap. Given the craftsmanship and materials used, these shoes were probably for someone of a higher social ranking.

2. What are the Different Types of Geta?

Koma Geta, Early 20th Century, V&A Museum

The classic geta, also known as koma-geta (駒下駄), are the most common geta these days. Usually made from lightweight paulownia wood, koma-geta feature the classic two-toothed geta design. Men’s geta tend to have a rectangular shape, whilst women’s geta are often found with a more oval curves. These geta are most commonly seen worn with yukata during the summer.

For those who find the learning curve of the two ‘teeth’ a bit daunting, there are geta that can help get you click-clacking in no time! Senryou-geta (千両下駄), also known as nomeri-geta (のめり下駄), feature a sloped front tooth. Since geta are designed to be tipped forward while walking, the slope is designed to make it easier to wear. Whereas koma-geta become easier to walk in after the teeth have worn down a little over time, senryo-geta are shaped to perform from the time they are new.

Bingata Wooden Geta in Passion Flower at Japan Objects Store — Bingata Wooden Geta available at Japan Objects Store

A more modern geta, sometimes called ukon-geta (右近下駄), features a lower profile with a more contemporary design, not unlike that of a wedge sandal. Not as high as koma-geta, with a larger non-slip sole, ukon-geta are much easier to walk in and are popular with young yukata wearers. They are like wearing regular sandals and can be worn without discomfort!

Two Musicians on a Bench by Ishikawa Toyonobu, 1750

Another geta that one may come across, even in modern-day Japan, are ashi-da (足駄), or tall geta. Featuring a much simpler hanao than other geta, these towering sandals can change the way you see the world! In the past, ashi-da were popular with male school students, and could often be seen paired with the classic gakuran school uniform.

Pair of Geta for a Courtesan, Late 19th Century, Peabody Essex Museum

Whilst most geta tend to be somewhat casual, at least in their modern day use, there are some reserved for special occasions. Pokkuri-geta (ぽっくり下駄), or okobo-geta, do not have teeth like other geta and instead the design is a sloped block shape. Pokkuri-geta are seen adorning the feet of maiko (apprentice geisha) and as a part of a girl’s Shichi-go-san ensemble. The height of pokkuri-geta allows the wearer to walk without staining the hem of the formal kimono, but the shape forces the wearer to shuffle down the street! A similar but lower and simpler design is the zori, which these days tends to be the footwear of choice for kimono outfits on formal occasions.

In ukiyo-e prints you may see geisha wearing triple-pronged lacquered geta, which were popular for a time in the Edo period. For some reason English speakers have mistakenly taken to calling these koma-geta, which are in fact the classic two-pronged wooden design mentioned above.

3. What is the Difference Between Geta and Zori Sandals?

Japanese Zori Slippers available at Japan Objects Store

Distinguishing between geta and zori primarily involves examining the materials employed in their construction. Zori sandals are typically made from cork and other soft materials such as common rush ( igusa). Igusa is used for making tatami mats in Japan, but it can also be used for bedding, rugs, aromatherapy, and even in some udon and steamed bun recipes! Due to its moisture-wicking properties and antibacterial effects, igusa is a great choice for the insoles of zori sandals. These days other materials, such as cotton or cotton/poly mix are sometimes used to make extremely comfortable footwear for around the home.

Cedar Wooden Geta, available at Japan Objects Store

In contrast, geta are fashioned from wood, boasting a solid sole foundation with incorporated wooden supporting blocks, often referred to as teeth, which enhance stability for the wearer. These wooden teeth significantly distinguish geta from zori sandals, as zori typically lack such protruding elements. Both geta and zori share similarities in their top thongs, which are usually adorned with cushioned fabric or intricate designs. Geta straps lean towards more casual designs, featuring a thick plush fabric for the thong, whereas zori straps are thinner, exuding a more polished and formal appearance.

4. How are Geta Made?

Geta Maker, Early 20th Century, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

As mentioned earlier, geta tend to be made from wood for its hardiness and longevity.

In the creation of most geta, the teeth of the geta are not individual pieces attached, rather the whole geta, including teeth, is usually carved from a single piece of wood. Paulownia wood is most commonly used, but some regions have their own specialities, such as Oita’s cedar geta. Geta can be left with a natural finish, or lacquered for a more polished looked. Older, well-loved geta take on a dark patina, tinted by the owner’s skin oils.

Just as important as the wooden base, if not so, is the v-shaped strip of cloth known as the hanao. Whilst the basic geta base has hardly changed since ancient times, the style of hanao seems to have changed with the fashions of the time. Hanao are made by wrapping cord or braided fibres with another fabric. Textiles are often selected to match the wearer’s yukata or clothing, with an endless variety of options including floral patterns, geometric patterns and even use of textiles such as velvet or leather. Hanao are tied to the dai shoe base, and are designed to be replaced when needed.

Geta are still made by hand in Japan, with Shizuoka, Hiroshima and Oita being the top geta producers. In fact, one location, Fukuyama city in Hiroshima, produces over 60% of Japan’s geta.

5. What to Wear with Geta?

Bingata Wooden Geta available at Japan Objects Store

Geta are most commonly worn with yukata (check out Yukata vs Kimono: What’s the Difference? if you’re not sure). Yukata are a summer outfit so on such occasion they are traditionally worn without socks. But this is not a hard and fast rule: if your feet are cold, get some tabi socks on!

Geta tend to be much smaller than regular shoes. To have some of your heel hang off the back of the sandal is considered a perfect fit.

However, geta aren’t just limited to Japanese clothing, of course! Geta can be worn with modern, Western clothing, just like any other sandal. Whilst your toes might get a bit chilly in the winter, geta are the perfect footwear to protect yourself from the hot summer asphalt and soggy sidewalks in the rainy season!

6. Can You Wear Geta Without Socks?

Considering the relaxed nature of geta sandals, it is very common to wear them without socks, particularly during Japan’s scorching summer months. Deciding whether to go sockless or pair your geta with split-toe socks, known as tabi, involves factoring in the weather and the material your sandals are made from. For instance, if your geta are crafted from unfinished wood, which is prone to staining and dirt accumulation, wearing them with tabi socks is a practical choice. On the other hand, geta with dark polished lacquered wood provide a protective shield against dirt and seat, making them suitable for sockless wear.

Remember that context, location, and the occasion, often referred to as Time, Place, and Occasion (TPO), play a crucial role in deciding when to forgo socks. In situations where shoes are removed, like entering someone's home or dining at a traditional Japanese restaurant with floor seating, call for wearing tabi socks or bring them along. Other scenarios where tabi socks might be essential include dinner parties, museum visits, and theater outings. It’s considered impolite to go barefoot in these settings and should be avoided.

7. Are Geta Sandals Formal or Casual?

Geta are typically considered a casual type of footwear and are a frequent choice for everyday attire or when donning a standard kimono or yukata. On the other hand, zori are worn for formal events such as weddings, coming-of-age ceremonies, and other celebrations. Drawing a parallel to contemporary footwear, some may compare geta to sandals or sneakers, while zori stand as the elegant counterpart to pumps or leather shoes, adding a refined touch to formal attire.

Navigating traditional Japanese footwear calls for astute awareness, as the wrong choice can inadvertently lead to a cultural faux pas. To illustrate, it’s a cardinal rule when dressing formally not to pair geta with a furisode or tomosode kimono, the attire worn during mourning, or the ensemble of a graduation hakama. Meticulous consideration of the time and place ensures when to correctly wear geta in formal or casual settings.

8. What Outfits Pair Well with Geta Sandals?

Embracing the elegance of geta sandals often comes through pairing them with a kimono ensemble. A variety of kimono types complement geta, including the beloved yukata. Simpler styles like Edo Kumon and kimono crafted from an array of fabrics such as cotton, hemp, denim, kasuri, and silk are also acceptable. A playful twist for summer occasions involves wearing the yukata in a kimono-style, where the collar reveals a peek of the nagajuban or undergarment, a half-width obi is chosen for a relaxed look, and tabi socks are matched with geta sandals to complete the outfit.

Expanding beyond traditional Japanese clothing, there are many other ways to style geta sandals with modern wear. Men can effortlessly incorporate geta sandals into their summer ensembles by pairing them with light-colored linen pants and a breezy button-up shirt. Women can opt for longer skirts or dresses, creating a chic contrast with the casual flair of geta sandals. Some fashion-forward Tokyoites have even donned geta with stylish jeans for a striking fusion of old and new. For a subtle touch of coordination, echoing the pattern of color for the geta thong through accessories like hats and bags can elevate any look.

9. Are Japanese Geta Comfortable?

While many modern shoes need a break-in period to become comfortable, geta sandals a bit of extra attention to ensure comfortable walking. To achieve a comfortable gait and avoid blisters, it’s essential to master the correct way of walking in geta. This involves gently pinching the toes together using the strap and lifting your foot while walking, moving from toe to heel. This technique not only enhances walking ease in geta but also prevents any mishaps like stepping on your kimono or clothes as you stroll.

Should the straps of the geta cause discomfort or irritation on your skin, a visit to a cobbler or a specialized geta shop could solve your problem. Often, a minor adjustment can deliver the comfortable fit you’re seeking. If these adjustments don’t suffice, a pair of thin or mesh split-toe socks might provide relief from the added pressure. During the summer, it’s not uncommon to spot individuals pairing their geta with lace or patterned tabi socks. This extra layer serves a dual purpose—shielding against blisters and chafing while also providing a defense against harsh UV rays and mosquitoes during hot, humid months.

Considering that geta are made from wood, it’s only natural that adapting to them might take some time. If your first experience wearing them isn’t entirely comfortable, don’t be disheartened. Every type of footwear has its learning curve, and geta are no exception.

10. How to Walk in Geta?

Although geta were once worn every single day, getting used to wearing them can take a bit of practice.

The key to wearing geta is achieving the quintessential karankoron, or click-clack sounds when walking. Rather than ‘wearing’ a normal shoe, it’s better to think that you’re ‘carrying’ the geta with your feet, lifting the sandals up by using your toes and top of your foot. Also, unlike the heel-toe step used when wearing heels, geta are worn best when walking with a toe to heel step.

If you’re getting sore feet just from thinking about putting on geta, not to worry! Prepping the geta by gently stretching the hanao strap, and a touch of talcum powder between the toes can do wonders to keep nasty blisters at bay. Or easier still is to choose a modern, more comfortable style of geta.

11. Are Geta Sandals Good for Your Feet?

Geta sandals harmoniously merge fashion with practicality by providing features that actively contribute to promoting foot health. Implementing the distinctive toe-pinching motion by wearing geta correctly while walking can stimulate healthy muscle activity in the plantar fascia, which is a band of tissue that connects the heel to the base of the toes. This vital tissue supports arch support and when strengthened can help prevent bunions and alleviate discomfort caused by flat feet.

Wearing geta sandals not only stimulates the toes but also enhances overall posture by shifting the body’s weight forward. This can assist in reducing muscle strain and alleviating back and shoulder discomfort. Furthermore, this can be particularly beneficial for those with floating toes, a condition where the toes do not make full contact with the ground. Additionally, geta sandals aid in promoting blood circulation further contributing to foot health and overall well-being.

12. Are There Modern Versions of Geta Sandals?

Japan’s remarkable ability to find equilibrium between tradition and modernity has given rise to a captivating blend of old and new. Over time, this delicate balance has paved the way for the emergence of modern adaptations of traditional geta sandals. These contemporary versions ingeniously incorporate modern materials to enhance comfort and durability. Unlike their predecessors, these modern geta can be made without conventional wooden components. Instead, they can embrace materials like rubber and cushioned insoles, redefining comfort and style. Rubber can also be incorporated on the bottom of the shoe to muffle out the clacking sound the shoe makes while walking.

Modern geta can have a diverse array of styles, encompassing wedged and platformed variations. Take, for instance, these Bingata Wooden Geta which combines rubber soles with a unique blend of Okinawan textile design, effectively bridging the gap between tradition and innovation. If you find the wooden platform of modern geta too firm for your feet, consider swapping them for a softer alternative, such as these Shikkoku Unisex sandals. These sandals can be styled similarly to modern geta, offering both comfort and contemporary flair.

13. Are There Indoor Versions of Geta Sandals?

While traditionally worn outdoors, in recent years, indoor versions of geta sandals have been made available in Japan. One of those latest innovations are Getals, designed specifically for indoor use. These unique sandals fuse traditional Japanese geta with the comfort of Western-style sandals. The result is a health-conscious shoe that not only stimulates blood circulation with its multi-thonged feature but also ensures optimal comfort. Furthermore, a layer of resin is added to the bottom of the shoe to protect indoor flooring and to dampen footsteps, maintaining a serene indoor environment.

For those seeking a softer indoor option, consider choosing a pair of zori slippers, like these for a more comfortable alternative. These Hishi Zori slippers are made entirely from cotton, have an adjustable strap, and can be thrown in the washing machine for simple cleaning and upkeep.

14. Where to Buy Japanese Geta Sandals?

Bingata Wooden Sandals in Rouge at Japan Objects Store — Bingata Wooden Geta available at Japan Objects Store

Right here in Japan Objects Store we have a number of alternatives that are easy on your feet.

These ukon-geta are handmade in the southern Okinawa islands, and incorporate a traditional Okinawan flora design known as bingata.

Shu Brocade Japanese Zori Slippers at Japan Objects Store — Japanese Zori Slippers available at Japan Objects Store

Nuno zori are a traditional type of Japanese sandal, and a popular handicraft often seen in the Japanese countryside. Enjoyed for their comfort and sandal-like design, zori are a popular alternative to the traditional slipper. Their open design of these zori slippers keeps your feel cool in summer, and the soft fabric protects your feet from cold floors in the colder seasons.

Grass-Woven Setta Sandals in Lemon at Japan Objects Store

These grass woven Setta sandals, which take inspiration from the classic geta, have an especially thick hanao strap for maximum comfort, as well as thick rubber sole to keep both your shoes and your feet safe and clean wherever you’re walking.

15. How Do I Choose the Right Size for Geta Sandals?

When choosing the appropriate size for geta sandals, it’s important to understand that Japanese sandals are traditionally worn in a slightly smaller size than their western equivalents, allowing the back of the heel to extend slightly over the edge. For newcomers to geta wearing, a recommended approach is to opt for a size that aligns the edge of your heel with the geta’s edge, ensuring a comfortably snug fit.

For those with intermediate to advanced experience in wearing geta sandals, it’s advised to choose a slightly smaller size where approximately 1 cm (½ inch) of your heel extends over the back edge of the shoe. Your toes should be slightly recessed from the top of the sandal, and the strap between the toes should rest around the middle of your big toe, leaving about a finger-width of space between the two front toes.

When shopping for geta, whether online or in-store, you’ll commonly encounter sizes such as S, M, L, or Free Size, which is designed to accommodate a range of foot dimensions. Women can typically find free sizes ranging from 23 to 25cm (approximately US size 6-8), while men’s standard sizes fall between 25 to 27cm (approximately US size 7-9).

16. How Can I Care For and Maintain Geta Sandals?

Proper shoe maintenance often goes unnoticed, yet it can significantly prolong the lifespan of your footwear when executed correctly. With constant wear over time, your geta will inevitably require cleaning and occasional repair. Maintaining your geta involves wiping them down with a slightly damp cloth and then allowing them to air dry in a shaded area. Cleaning them in this manner after each use is recommended. However, maintenance may vary depending on the type of geta.

Specifically, in the case of plain wood geta, gently sanding down stubborn dirt spots may be necessary, while painted geta sandals might need a touch-up using a magic marker to address chipped paint. In cases of extensive paint wear, seeking the services of a cobbler for repainting is a viable option. Notably, the teeth of geta sandals, if worn down, can also be replaced by visiting a cobbler or a specialized geta maker shop.