What are Hanten? 20 Things to Know About Hanten Jackets

by Teni Wada | LIFESTYLE

Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Are you tired of wearing the same old puffer jacket every winter? Do you want to add a certain pop to your wardrobe without exerting too much effort? Maybe it’s time that you invest in a hanten. These comfortable coats have been worn for hundreds of years, and remain in-style to this day thanks to their simple yet effective design. If you are feeling lost in regards to where to start, this helpful guide will have you snuggled up with a brand-new hanten in no time! We'll explain how they came to be, where you can buy a hanten jacket, and what to consider when buying them.

1. What is a Hanten?

Sashiko Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

A hanten is a short winter coat that is often worn during the colder months. With cotton padding for warmth and a tailored collar, it is suitable for every-day wear. It was originally worn over a kimono or other garments, and can be styled regardless of gender, which makes it the perfect replacement for cardigan or jacket.

Carpenter’s wife and Farmer’s wife in Hanten, Woodblock Print by Utagawa Kuniyoshi, Mid 19th Century

Hanten first became popular during the 18th century, or the later part of the Edo period. Unlike other haori (see below) hanten could be worn by anyone, and for various occasions. It was not only utilized in the winter, but also at night or during a festival. Thanks to the lightweight design, it provided both warmth and breathability, making it a very useful article of clothing.

2. How to Wear a Hanten?

Red Hanten Jacket — Red Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

These coats may have evolved over traditional Japanese apparel, but the simplicity of design means you can wear them with any outfit. People often use them with casual wear, or even pajamas, due to the versatility of the piece. In Japan, many homes do not have central heating, so a hanten, which is warming but not bulky, is the perfect outfit accessory to stave off high electricity bills. It is also so comfortable that it can be worn while studying or reading, attending festivals, or even at the convenience store.

3. How are Hanten Made?

© Mitsunobu, Available at Japan Objects Store

The entire process of making a hanten jacket involves 30 different steps from start to finish, such as designing patterns, weaving, binding, and dyeing cotton cloth. The best hanten are made using Kurume Kasuri cotton, which is a type of woven cotton fabric dyed with indigo, produced in Kurume City, Fukuoka. A majority of production is still done by hand following the techniques introduced by Den Inoue, the originator of Kurume Kasuri.

4. Where are Hanten Made?

Since the 1800s, production of hanten jackets has been centered in the southern Kyushu region of Japan, in a city called Kurume, using Kurume Kasuri textile. As the popularity of hanten spread across Japan, the city became synonymous with hanten. In fact, the Japanese government designated Kurume Kasuri as an important intangible cultural property in 1957. To this day, domestic manufacturing of hanten remains centered in Kurume City using Kurume Kasuri textiles.

5. What are Hanten Made Of?

The exterior of a good hanten uses 100% Kurukme Kasuri cotton for the exterior and lining and is padded with either 100% cotton, or a mixture of cotton and polyester. The advantage of using a cotton/polyester mixed padding is that it can be lighter and longer-lasting than just cotton, while still providing superior warmth and comfort.

6. Where Can I Buy a Hanten?

Boro Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

At Japan Objects Store we have a fantastic selection of high-quality Kurume hanten available in our online store for both men and women. Our hanten are tailored to modern life, featuring a longer hem, full comfortable padding and two large pockets.

7. What to Look Out for When Buying a Hanten?

Patchwork Hanten Jacket — Patchwork Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

When buying a Japanese hanten, a lot comes down to personal preference. Maybe you like a subtle, yet elegant style to weave into your stylish wardrobe. An inner tie allows for a snug fit, and its lightness assures easy mobility. For those who aren’t looking to venture far in terms of fashion, maybe a more traditional coat is the way to go. The materials of this item make for a warm protective layer that is non-constricting. It is both sturdy and reliable.

When making a selection, quality is the most important thing to factor. Garments made of pure cotton and natural fibers are the best for your skin and your hanten’s livelihood as it ages. Be on the look-out for pristine stitching as well, because you want it to last for as long as possible. Thankfully, most sellers take pride in their work; there are thousands of unique and high-quality styles to choose from all over Japan and online. You can purchase this authentic Kurume cotton hanten at Japan Objects Store, with free shipping worldwide!

8. Do Hanten Come in Different Sizes?

Red Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Hanten are designed to be worn loosely over a kimono, so are not necessarily fastened at the front. Consequently, they are generally made in a single size which fits most. The hanten in Japan Objects Store are ideal for size M to L: Chest Size 28-37” (72-94cm); Length 33” (84cm). Please refer to our sizing chart for details.

9. What Size Hanten do I Need?

Kasuri Hanten Jacket — Kasuri Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

A hanten is a “one size fits all” robe-like garment that stops mid-thigh. Hanten have three-quarter length sleeves which are flattering on petite frames and proportional to tall frames.

10. How do I Accessorize my Hanten?

Navy Hanten Jacket — Navy Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

The hanten is a versatile item that you can wear over a kimono or pair with a turtleneck, a long flowing skirt, skinny leg jeans, or trousers. Add an air of sophistication to your look by pairing your hanten with our unique Mizuhiki Hoop Earrings. The gold accents and dark colors of the mizuhiki rice paper cords complement the muted colors and texture of Kurume Kasuri textile.

11. How Should I Display/Store my Hanten?

To store your hanten, simply hang on a hanger as you would any jacket or cardigan. When storing for the off-season, fold your hanten on the seams to retain its shape. If your space is limited, you may want to place your hanten in a vacuum-sealed storage bag as it may be bulky. You’ll find that it will puff back up to its original volume when it’s time to wear.

12. How Do I Clean my Hanten?

Hanten are 100% cotton garments that have a cotton/polyester blend padding.. To clean your hanten, first handwash it in warm water using neutral detergent. Rinse immediately and do not tumble-dry. If possible it is best leave in the sun to dry (although covered so that the sunlight does not shine directly on the fabric and cause color bleaching). The warmth of the sun will help the padding to expand back to its original shap

13. Are Hanten Unisex?

The shape of hanten are not differentiated between men and women, the only difference being that men tend to prefer darker colors and simpler patterns, so for this reason some hanten are labelled men’s hanten, and some women’s hanten. But there’s actual no reason why any hanten shouldn’t be worn by anyone who likes it

14. Are Hanten Worn Indoors or Outdoors?

Yanagi Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Hanten can be worn both indoors and outdoors, and you can style your hanten as a cardigan or jacket. In Japan, it was once customary to gather around the irori, an indoor hearth, or use a kerosene stove to heat one’s home. Additional warmth was provided by wearing a hanten. Japanese homes of the 21st century typically do not have central heating, although you will find modern comforts such as electric heaters, electric carpets, and kotatsu (heated tables). When worn indoors, the hanten is an eco-friendly means of staying warm indoors during the winter that also allows you to cut down on your electric consumption.

15. Are Hanten Jackets Casual or Formal?

Koshi Hanten Jacket — Koshi Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Hanten are a very useful article of clothing as they are lightweight yet provide warmth and breathability. These days they can be worn outside at any time you might wear a jacket or cardigan.

16. Are Hanten Only for Winter?

Hanten are padded garments; therefore they provide warmth during the colder months of the year and are best suited for colder climates. The deep hues of indigo Kurume kasuri textiles and its patterns are reminiscent of a Japanese village in winter, its bare trees, snowy landscapes and long, dark nights. But the most important thing is comfort – if your significant other insists on blasting the AC on full all summer, why not stay warm in a hanten!

17. Can I Wear a Hanten over a Kimono?

Patchwork Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Yes, you may wear a hanten over a kimono, in fact they were originally designed for this purpose. But you don’t have to wear kimono to enjoy hanten, they’re equally comfortable over a T-shirt! If you’re wearing kimono on very formal occasions, you may want to opt for a michiyuki, a single-breasted button overcoat with a square-shaped neckline.

18. What is the Difference Between a Hanten and a Haori?

Vintage Silk Haori Jacket — Haori Jackets available at Japan Objects Store

The cut of a haori is similar to a hanten in that it is hip-length, and worn over the kimono, but the most obvious difference is that a hanten is a thickly-padded winter garmet, whereas a haori is a much thinner, lighter jacket.

During the Edo period, the wearing for haori was restricted to certain social classes while hanten were widely available to all. Haori can be very formal depending on fabric and construction. The Edo authorities frowned of overt displays of wealth, so the more decorative parts were usually reserved for discreet lavish linings, which are still apparent in haori worn today. Check out the 8 Things You Need to Know About Haori Jackets!

19. What is the Difference Between a Hanten and a Happi?

© Vintage Japan-esque / Creative Commons

A happi jacket again has a similar cut to a hanten, however it is a more simple design woven in cotton, and meant to be very casual; meaning not worn over kimono. Historically a happi was usually used as a form of uniform, whereas a hanten is more a padded coat to keep out the cold. However there is lot of overlap between the two styles and today many people use the terms interchangeably (see here for more detail in Japanese).

Actors Playing Construction Workers in Happi, Woodblock Print Triptych by Utagawa Kunisada, 1860

Commonly dyed in a single color, happi are often are adorned with large kanji or other symbols on the back to label groups, companies and events. Even today, happi are worn during festivals by locals or donned by more traditional laborers.

20. What’s the Difference between a Hanten and a Tanzen?

The tanzen is another padded garment worn during the colder months in the northern regions of Japan, such as Tohoku and Hokkaido. However, tanzen are full-length outer robes worn left over right (just like a kimono or yukata) and fastened with an obi (sash). The hanten, on the other hand, stops mid-thigh, and fastens with front strings or is worn open. To find out more, check out 33 Traditional Japanese Clothing You'll Want to Wear!