What is Shibori? 7 Things to Know About Japanese Tie Dye

by David McElhinney | CRAFT

Nui Shibori Yukata, The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

Simply put, shibori is Japan’s unique version of tie-dyeing. Considering its 1,300-year history, however, such a comparison does this richly traditioned craft a disservice. Shibori techniques have been iterated upon since their 8th-century introduction to Japan – particularly during the days of Edo – and remain an important cultural property today.

This form of dyeing now appears on textiles of all description: the clothing of yesteryear, vintage artworks in genre-leading museums, sprucing up the upholstery on sofas and bed sets, or simply decorating towels, shawls and scarves.

So, if that has piqued your interest, read on for all you need to know about shibori dyeing.

1. What is Shibori?

© Japan Folk Crafts Museum, Shibori Kimono by Motohiko Katano

Shibori is a Japanese manual resist dyeing technique used on textiles to creates patterns that spread unevenly across the fabric. The resulting patterns are often emblematic of Japan’s appreciation of the beauty of imperfection – known locally as wabi sabi – and are prized for their individuality and arresting beauty.

Shibori Silk Vintage Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Shibori, coming from the word shiboru (to wring or squeeze), is less about a singular technique and more about the approach to dyeing in relation to the textile being dyed. This may sound abstract – hardly a rarity in Japan’s cultural arts – but is based on the fact that there are innumerable ways to bind, stitch, fold, twist or compress cloth for shibori. This, of course, affects the appearance of the final product, as will the length of time for which the textile is exposed to the dye, not to mention the color of the dye itself. Silk, hemp and cotton tend to work well with shibori, whereas indigo has long been the favored organic dye of Japanese artisans.

It is this harmony between the characteristic of the fabric, the color of the dye being used, the technique applied and the practitioner’s vision that is the essence of shibori.

2. What is the History of Shibori?

Woman Making Shibori by Utagawa Kunisada, 1845

Tie-dyeing techniques have existed in cultures across the world for centuries, from the native tribes of the Peruvian Andes and the old kingdoms of Rajasthan, to ancient Middle Eastern cultures and Silk Road traders.

The exact date when Japanese shibori was created is unknown, though there are examples of shibori-dyed items being used by the highest rungs of society as far back as the Nara period (AD 710 – 784). Emperor Shomu donated goods to Todai-ji – one of the Seven Great Temples still residing in Nara Prefecture today – upon its founding, one of which was a cloth dyed with a shibori technique.

We also know that shibori arrived in Japan by way of China, and though its roots are now well over a millennium old, it didn’t enjoy mainstream appeal in Japan until the great cultural and artistic revolutions of the Edo period (1603 – 1868). Part of this was also down to necessity: cotton and silk were expensive, whereas hemp (a fibrous plant endemic to Japan) was a cheaper alternative. Furthermore, the lower classes were forbidden from wearing silk – if they could get their hands on it, that is – facilitating shibori’s growth in popularity as a method for renewing and reinvigorating old clothes.

As time progressed, new variations of the technique came into being, and additional dyeing techniques like tsutsugaki, the art of creating patterns using rice paste, began to follow suit.

3. What is Shibori Used For?

What shibori is used for will be down to the artisan in question. If the textile can be dyed, then shibori techniques can be applied.

You may see it on clothes, such as kimono, yukata and haori jackets. Shibori also features on artworks; appearing in museums in Japan, such as the Kyoto Shibori Museum, and world-renowned museums abroad, including the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

Geta Sandals with Shibori *Hanao* Strap, available at Japan Objects Store

It might even appear on more prosaic items, such as handkerchiefs, furoshiki (multi-purpose wrapping towels), pillowcases and bags.

Ultimately, the item on which shibori appears is less dictated by tradition than the application of the techniques.

4. How Does Shibori Differ From Other Dyes?

© 漱石の猫 / Creative Commons, Arimatsu Shibori

Shibori is often compared – rightly or wrongly – to tie-dye, which was popularized in the West via the countercultural hippy movement of 1960s America. Shibori artists, however, use thread to isolate many small, repeated points on the fabric. This focus on the minutiae tends to create designs that are far more intricate and detailed than modern tie-dye.

Tie-dyeing generally uses one more straightforward technique of twisting and tying the middle of the shirt to create a psychedelic spiral design, and while this tends to portray colors from the entire spectrum, more often than not shibori features only one color.

Ombre is another popular dyeing technique, used primarily to create color gradients on fabric. It’s much simpler technique for amateurs than shibori as it involves simply dipping the fabric into a container of dye – the length of time for which a section of the fabric is submerged in the dye will dictate the shade and richness of the color (i.e. the style of the ombre).

5. What are the Major Shibori Techniques

Shibori Silk Vintage Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

There are three major categories of shibori in Japan – kokechi (tied or bound resists), rokechi (wax resists), and kyokechi (clamped resists). To complicate things a little further, there are six major shibori techniques used in Japan, which generally fit within one of the three categories.

We’ve outlined these techniques in brief below:

Kumo Shibori, often translated as “spider tie-dye”, is the most conceptual of the techniques. The process involves tying sections of the fabric with fibers to create spider web-like designs. Shibori designers may also tie the fabric around miscellaneous items which offer resistance and contribute to the uniqueness of the final product.

Miura Shibori uses the processes of looping and binding to create patterns that resemble rippling water (especially when indigo is used). A slightly more involved process, miura designers need to pluck pieces of the cloth with a hook and needle, while the degree to which it is bound will affect the shape of the design.

Kanoko Shibori is the style that most closely resembles tie-dye. Like their Western counterparts, kanoko practitioners today often use elastic bands to tie the fabric, as opposed to the threads of fabric they would have used in the past. It is said to be one of the most approachable shibori techniques for beginners, yet allows for creativity and personalization when making the product.

Arashi Shibori, referred to colloquially as pole wrapping shibori, is a process whereby artisans use wooden or copper poles to twist, wrap and bind the cloth. The outcome is typically a highly detailed diagonal pattern that resembles the veins of a leaf.

Nui Shibori is the most detailed of all the shibori techniques and is as much about stitching as it is about dyeing. By using hand-stitching techniques and wooden dowels to create resistance, the outcomes of this process are carefully crafted designs with accurate patterns. Because of the intricacy involved, nui shibori practitioners can depict a vast range of iconography, from flowers and geometric patters to sea creatures and impressionistic artworks.

Itajime Shibori allows for the most robust patterns, by using wood, and in some cases, plastic clamped together to resist to the dye. The results tend to feature thick, bold patterns such as repeated two-dimensional shapes separated by contrasting shades of color.

6. Where are Shibori Products Made?

In Arimatsu, a town in Aichi Prefecture famous for its shibori legacy, the Suzusan label is an among the most popular. The eldest son of the Murase family’s fourth generation, Hiroyuki Murase, is one of shibori’s most progressive figures. First founding Suzusan as a design company in Düsseldorf, where he combined the family’s legacy with a more modern vision, Hiroyuki’s clothing label has become emblematic of the adaptations necessary to keep Japan’s traditional arts alive. The Suzusan label produces modern clothing, alongside rustic homeware like cushion covers and throws, which harken back to the traditional ways of Japanese life: a simplicity that is bound by its connection to and appreciation of nature.

The first port of call for anyone interested in shibori is the aforementioned Kyoto Shibori Museum. First opened in 2010, it celebrates the works of local artisans stretching back to the 1940s. Located nearby Kyoto’s Nijo Castle, the museum hosts permanent and temporary exhibits that cover all facets of the textile world, with the eponymous shibori taking centre stage.

Tokyo museums, especially those focusing on traditional arts and crafts will host occasional shibori exhibits, but in the lush mountain-crowned town of Ome on the western outskirts is where you’ll find the capital’s finest shibori workshop. Kosoen, a studio dedicated to indigo dyeing, showcases garments styled using shibori techniques and sells a wide selection of textiles for visitors to take home.

7. Where Can I Buy Shibori Clothes?

One of the most popular uses for shibori is in haori jackets, traditional silk garments worn over kimono. To find out more, head over to our purchasing guide, Haori: How to Choose the Best Japanese Jackets, or check out the vintage jacket collection at the Japan Objects Store. If you’re looking to buy shibori products while you’re in Tokyo, you can also check out our guide on Where to Buy Fabrics in Tokyo.