What are Tabi Socks? 7 Things You Should Know

by Michele Tanabe | LIFESTYLE

© Violaine Martin / Creative Commons, Japanese Tabi Socks

In the world of fashion, it’s the little things that often make the biggest difference. While accessories like jewelry and shoes take center stage, there’s an unsung hero that deserves more recognition: socks. These seemingly modest components often go unnoticed, yet they have the power to elevate an ensemble to new heights. And in Japanese fashion history, one particular type stands out: tabi socks, also known as split-toe socks. Given Japan’s reputation as a thriving fashion hub, tabi socks have become a prominent fixture in the realm of style, yet their fascinating history and modern uses remain largely unexplored.

1) What are Tabi Socks?

Men’s Tabi Socks, available at Japan Objects Store

First and foremost, what are tabi socks? Tabi socks (simply tabi or 足袋 in Japanese) are a distinctive form of traditional Japanese footwear, instantly recognizable for their unique split-toe design. By dividing the big toe from the rest, this design not only creates a visually striking appearance but also contributes to enhanced flexibility and balance. Made primarily from cotton, tabi socks are a versatile choice worn by both men and women. These socks come with a variety of fastening methods to ensure a secure fit on the foot. For instance, some versions are equipped with metal hooks on the back, while more contemporary tabi socks feature elastic bands.

© Asturio Cantabrio / Creative Commons, Traditional Tabi Socks

Traditionally, tabi socks have been a staple accessory to pair with traditional Japanese footwear such as geta, zori, and setta. Over time, however, they have evolved beyond their traditional roots and found a place in modern fashion. This unique combination of practicality and esthetics makes tabi socks an intriguing element of Japanese culture, showcasing the ongoing blend of tradition and innovation.

2) Where do Japanese Tabi Socks Come From?

© Kaneko Kunio, Folding Fan and Tabi, 2001

Japanese tabi, recognized today as split-toe socks, were originally worn outdoors and were believed to have been introduced to Japan from China maybe as far back as the Kofun period (250-538). This form of original footwear, called Shitouzu (襪 in Japanese), fully enclosed the toes, and was crafted by stitching two pieces of cloth together. They were secured by tying a string at the ankle and were crafted from materials like hemp or silk, making them a luxury reserved for aristocrats and the wealthy elite. It’s been theorized that the impracticality and impossibility of wearing Shitouzu with zori sandals led commoners to innovate. Foot coverings that separated the toes emerged, utilizing more readily available textiles. This shift marked a potential origin of the modern-day tabi.

The rise of zori sandals during the Muromachi era (1336-1573) popularized leather tabi among samurai. By the late 1500s, white leather tabi for men and purple-dyed tabi for women became customary. Leather tabi also gained prominence in military uniforms during times of battle. Cotton production advancements during the Edo period (1603-1868) made split-toe socks more accessible. White tabi became synonymous with formal occasions and ceremonies, while darker hues like navy blue were favored by townspeople. The progression of tabi socks over time marked a significant evolution in Japanese footwear reflecting changes in social status, practicality, and fashion preferences.

3) How to Wear Tabi Socks?

Tabi Socks, available at Japan Objects Store

Tabi have integrated themselves into various facets of traditional Japanese wear, as well as modern Japanese fashion. Listed below are some examples of how tabi socks can be worn.

Kimono: Tabi socks are most commonly known for their place in the elegant world of kimono-wearing. They not only add an aesthetic touch but also offer practical warmth during chilly winters when paired with sandals like geta or zori. Moreover, they became an essential accessory during Japanese tea ceremonies, which spotlight the meticulous art of matcha preparation and brewing. In these ceremonial contexts, particularly in formal settings, tabi socks maintain a constant hue of pristine white, signifying the importance of the event or setting. Get your own pair of decorative tabi socks at the Japan Objects store here.

Samurai Wearing Tabi by Shinbaisai Hokuei, 1830s

Festival Celebrations & Shrines: Tabi socks along with tabi shoes (地下足袋 or jikatabi in Japanese) are often worn by participants in festivals or matsuri. Tabi play a significant role in festival activity uniforms used in dancing, carrying portable shrines, drumming, as well as in traditional wear at temples and shrines.

Outdoor Pursuits & Athletics: Those engaged in outdoor activities, like construction workers, often opt for tabi socks paired with tabi shoes to enhance both stability and foot well-being. Tabi socks also find utility in athletic pursuits, including running, and have a distinct presence in specific sports uniforms like those worn in Japanese archery, also known as kyudo.

Performing Arts: Beyond festivals and the outdoors, tabi socks find their place in Japan’s thriving performing arts scene. Tabi socks are seen as a staple in traditional Japanese theater costumery such as in kabuki and noh performances. For example, in kabuki, actors don elaborate makeup and kimono in vibrant hues, layered with padding. Tabi shoes and socks play a crucial role in enhancing their stage presence while also providing much-needed comfort during the extended hours of practice and performance.

4) What are the Different Types of Tabi?

Samue and Tabi Socks, available at Japan Objects Store

While our main focus is on tabi socks designed for indoor wear, it’s equally crucial to shed light on the diverse range of tabi versions, some of which are designed for outdoor use. Both indoor and outdoor tabi varieties hold significant importance within traditional Japanese garment culture.

Tabi Socks: As discussed in previous sections, tabi socks are designed primarily for indoor wear and can be crafted from materials like cotton, silk, or hemp, with historical variations that included leather. Contemporary tabi are often made from polyester, which is easier to wash, and the added flexibility aids comfort. Tabi are available in a variety of sizes, colors, and lengths, allowing for a diverse range of options to suit individual preferences.

© istolethetv / Creative Commons, Construction Worker in Jikatabi

Jikatabi: A type of tabi serving primarily as an outdoor shoe or boot. It fulfills two main purposes: one being the choice of laborers such as construction workers, rickshaw drivers, and gardeners. These tabi are typically designed with thick rubber soles, steel toe guards, and other reinforced elements integrated into the fabric to ensure foot protection in demanding environments. The second version of jikatabi is matsuri tabi and they take a softer approach, tailored for festival wear. While retaining a rubber sole, this variation omits the hardened toe guards and velcro fasteners. Instead, it features metal fasteners at the ankle, known as Kohaze, which offer secure and comfortable fitting.

Oka Tabi: This variation of tabi is made with thick fabric on the bottom, and is typically worn indoors or with traditional thonged sandals like setta, or getta. Oka tabi are different from jikatabi in the fact that they are worn like socks and have a softer soles. Another difference is that jikatabi are typically worn by festival participants while oka tabi are worn by festival goers. These shoes are also worn on the stage by prop makers and may be worn in other facets of the theater.

Tabi Running Shoes: Going beyond the realm of traditional tabi, contemporary tabi shoes hold a significant place in Japanese footwear. Specifically designed for athletic pursuits, tabi running shoes not only enhance performance but also contribute to overall foot health. These shoes activate foot and leg muscles, offering a barefoot walking sensation that encourages natural movement. Tabi running shoes also have a longstanding history; an example of this is Shigeki Tanaka’s victory in the 1951 Boston Marathon, where he triumphantly wore tabi shoes, showcasing their enduring presence in the realm of sports.

5) How are Tabi Socks Made?

© 漱石の猫 / Creative Commons, Making Tabi Socks

Crafting tabi socks involves a meticulous process that blends traditional methods with contemporary techniques. The initial step often involves selecting based on comfort, durability, and the overall sensory experience of the socks.

Historically, crafting traditional tabi socks entailed tracing fabric in the wearer’s preferred color or design using paper patterns to ensure accurate sizing and fit. Employing robust thread, skilled artisans meticulously sew the fabric pieces together either by hand or using a sewing machine. To enhance longevity, additional reinforcements can be strategically placed around the toes and heel.

A pivotal aspect of tabi production is the method of fastening. Various options such as buttons, ties, or clasps are employed, typically positioned around the ankle for a seamless and secure fit. For those interested in creating their own tabi socks, numerous online resources cater to both beginners and experienced crafters. Moreover, there are tutorials like this one, available to transform regular socks into split-toe variations.

6) What are the Benefits of Wearing Tabi Socks?

Beyond their significant role in Japanese garment history, tabi socks offer unexpected advantages that extend to posture and walking. Unlike conventional socks, tabi socks’ division of the big toe from the rest fosters a liberated stride, engaging the big toe and pinky toe during movement and stance. This further promotes a well-centered gait and improved posture.

Another notable advantage of wearing tabi socks lies in their potential to prevent bunions, a condition known as Hallux Valgus. These uncomfortable protrusions typically develop on the outer side of the big toe due to extended pressure from the big toe pushing against the second toe. The shoes one wears can be both the culprit and the solution to this ailment. For instance, consistent use of tight-fitting shoes such as high heels often contributes to the formation of bunions. Opting for tabi socks and shoes, however, liberates the toes and offers relief from the excessive pressure that can lead to bunions.

An often overlooked benefit of tabi socks is their ability to target specific pressure points, including one called Happu situated at the base of each toe. The snug fit of tabi socks facilitates the stimulation of these pressure points, particularly as the socks envelop the foot securely. Activating Happu can enhance healthy circulation, which in turn contributes to lowered blood pressure, improved metabolism, and alleviation from cold sensations.

7) How are Tabi Socks Used in Contemporary Fashion?

© Hyperbeast, Maison Margiela Tabi, Photography by TORA NORTHMAN/HYPEBAE

Tabi socks and shoes have sparked an interest among designers and enthusiasts around the world. While initially a niche style, tabi’s unique split-toe design has captured the attention of fashion houses resulting in innovative interpretations. One example of this is Maison Margiela’s heeled leather tabi, which has made waves in the fashion industry with its groundbreaking approach. This daring design epitomizes the marriage of classic tabi structure with contemporary aesthetics giving a valuable example of how tradition can inspire cutting-edge fashion.

Besides high fashion, everyday versions of tabi-inspired shoes have become more common in casual wear. For example, sportswear giants such as Nike and Asics have also embraced tabi’s influence. The iconic Nike Air Rift, with its distinct toe separation, pays homage to the tabi design while delivering modern comfort and style. Asics too, has explored this trend but infusing athletic footwear with tabi-inspired elements. Other styles such as split-toe Mary Janes, rain boots, hiking boots, tennis shoes, and professional work shoes have been more readily available for everyday wear.

As fashion continues to evolve, tabi socks and tabi shoes will not only become more mainstream but will also find their way into the everyday wardrobes of individuals seeking a unique and culturally resonant touch.