What is Sashiko? 8 Things to Know About Japanese Embroidery

by Michele Tanabe | CRAFT

Step into any clothing store, and you might find yourself idly running your fingers over the textures of garments, seeking a sensory delight. Yet, in the hustle of modern fashion, the profound stories woven into the fabric often go unnoticed. During a recent excursion to a traditional Tokyo neighborhood, a pattern of raised stitches grazed my fingertips, igniting a curious spark. Little did I know I had encountered a piece of Japanese history. But what exactly was this embroidery technique, and what tales did it carry? In this article, we will uncover the detailed life of Sashiko, Japan’s most iconic embroidery technique.

Contents

1. What is Sashiko?
2. The History of Sashiko
3. Why is Sashiko Embroidery Different from Other Techniques?
4. What are the Different Types of Sashiko?
5. What are the Different Sashiko Patterns?
6. How Can I Try Sashiko At Home?
7. How is Sashiko Used in Comtemporary Fashion?
8. Where Can I Buy Sashiko Clothing?

1. What is Sashiko?

19th Century Sashiko Jacket, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Sashiko (刺し子) is a versatile Japanese stitching and embroidery technique primarily used to mend, reinforce, and embellish garments. In the past, the women of rural farming communities practiced this simple running stitch using white thread on indigo-dyed fabrics like cotton and hemp. Over time, sashiko has evolved from a frugal necessity to a decorative stitching style. Modern examples of sashiko can be observed in various contemporary fashion houses both in Japan and beyond.

2. The History of Sashiko

Mizuhiki Sashiko Noren, available at Japan Objects Store

While the majority of historical instances trace the use of sashiko back to the Edo Period (1603-1867), notable discoveries include pieces from even earlier eras. For example, a monk’s robe from the 8th Century adorned with a decorative running stitch has been found in Shoso-in, a treasure house commissioned by Emperor Shomu in the mid-700s. These early instances of decorative sashiko hint at the longstanding use of this traditional running stitch since ancient times, yet sashiko’s original birthplace remains a mystery.

19th Century Sashiko Kimono, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

During the Edo Period, a strict class hierarchy established social order. While this division brought a sense of structure, it also imposed rules, including restrictions on using garments and textiles within each class. Commoners and the working class faced limitations on the types of textiles they could use, leading communities to adopt practices focused on extending the lifespan of available fabrics. At this time sashiko was mostly used by the working class farming and fishing families as to make stronger more practical workwear. A worn-out piece was stitched with layers of old cloth, producing a sturdy garment passed down through generations.

Cloth was a precious commodity, and homespinning fabric was a time-intensive task. Natural fibres like cotton, silk and hemp were handspun, handwoven, and dyed. Silk and cotton were reserved for a specific section of society and were expensive; hemp was what the ordinary man wore, which was more prone to tearing. Given the circumstances mending prowess was a skill needed to survive, which has evolved over the centuries from a frugal necessity into decorative stitching.

By the Meiji Era (1868-1912), this folk textile was a well-established craft. Even personal protective garments, such as the firemen's coat (hikeshibaten) during the Edo and Meiji period, were modelled using the Sashiko technique of stitching several indigo-coloured layers. This garment was worn wet after soaking in water before performing duties, and typically dragons, mythological heroes, and symbols of water and bravery decorated the uniforms.

3. Why is Sashiko Different From Other Embroidery Techniques?

Sashiko Pattern, Available at Yahoo Japan

If you’re new to embroidery, the distinct tools and stitching techniques might surprise you. Sashiko, in particular, uses tools that differ from their Western counterparts. For instance, the sewing needle features a larger eye, accommodating thicker cotton thread, and boasts extra length for durability. Sashiko thread also exhibits subtle yet noteworthy differences, particularly in its construction. Unlike embroidery thread made from strands, sashiko thread is crafted by twisting fine threads into a single, sturdier thread.

When looking into sashiko, you might encounter the term boro. While sashiko is a stitching style, boro is a mending technique emphasizing layering and patching. Boro is often paired with the sashiko stitch; thus, the two are often thought of concurrently. To learn more about boro, read What is Boro? 6 Things to Know about the Japanese Patchwork Textile.

4. What are the Different Types of Sashiko?

© Goodhue County Historical Society, Sashiko Coaster

In the past, sashiko’s styles varied depending on the region. Variables such as weather, climate, and available resources helped characterize different types of sashiko. The main geographic variations are:

Indigo Sashiko Furoshiki, available at Japan Objects Store

Tsugaru Sashiko: This mountainous region, typically wet and suitable for cultivating rice, employs white thread in a horizontal or vertical running stitch over dark-dyed indigo fabric. The deep color of the fabric symbolized the region's wealth, as a considerable amount of indigo dye was needed.
Nanbu Sashiko: Located in northern Japan, this region's dry climate resulted in less prosperity in farming. Nambu Sashiko uses light blue ramie or hemp fabric as a base and then layers the shoulders and edges of the garment with light cotton. The light blue thread used for stitching contrasts the base layer’s dark indigo blue.
Shimokita Sashiko: Situated in Aomori Prefecture, this peninsula region used abundant thread to make garments sturdier for wearers, mainly from the fishing industry.
Shonai Sashiko: This type of sashiko features distinct geometric patterns, using dark fabric with white or blue thread layered over the top, sewn from right to left and top to bottom.

5. What are the Different Sashiko Patterns?

Matcha Sashiko Furoshiki, available at Japan Objects Store

Other than the distinct regions, sashiko is identifiable by the patterns and methods used. The two main styles of sashiko include moyozashi, which enforces running stitches in long lines, and hitomezashi, which aligns single stitches to create a grid.

Besides styles, another way to identify sashiko is through its various patterns. Listed below are some of the patterns found in sashiko-stitched fabrics and clothing:

Hanazashi: Overlapping flowers

Seigaiha: Waves

Tate-jima: Vertical stripes

Yoko-jima: Horizontal stripes

Koshi: Checks

Hishi-moyo: Diamonds

Uroko: Fish scales

Jujitsunagi: Crosses

Kaku Shippo: Representative of The Seven Treasures (gold, silver, lapis lazuli, glass, mantis shrimp, coral, and agate) in the Buddhist scripture Muryoju

Shippo Tsunagi: Intersecting rings

Nowaki: Wind that blows grass of the field

Yabane: Arrow feather

Hoshiami: Intersecting rings that resemble a fishing net

6. How Can I Try Sashiko At Home?

The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook, Available at Amazon — The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook, available at Amazon

As sashiko gains popularity, you might be eager to start your stitching journey. Gather essential supplies like sashiko thread, a needle, fabric, thimble, and pattern tracing tools to kick things off.

Numerous tutorials and websites offer guidance on material sourcing and step-by-step instructions for beginners. Sew Guide’s tutorial stands out, providing comprehensive insights into selecting the right tools and offering easy-to-follow instructions on basic sashiko stitching.

In addition to online resources, various books feature sashiko patterns, including The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook: Patterns, Projects and Inspirations and Simply Sashiko: Classic Japanese Embroidery Made Easy. With so many sashiko references available, you’ll become a pro in no time.

7. How is Sashiko Used in Contemporary Fashion?

Sashiko Samue, available at Japan Objects Store

As major fashion brands increasingly embrace sustainable production and conscious consumerism, sashiko, a stitching technique that reimagines old garments as new, can finally find a welcomed home within the ever-changing scope of contemporary fashion. While sashiko may have only been popular in Japan, it's making waves in niche fashion houses, prioritizing durability, style, and high-quality craftsmanship.

Kapital, for example, uses sashiko stitching methods to create an original sashiko topstitched denim, such as in this Century Denim 1st Jacket. Other examples of modern sashiko include Japan Blue’s bucket hat, which embodies a classic and contemporary shape yet is textured and reinforced with sashiko! Our own Samue Jacket and Lounge Pants parallel the rising trend of comfortable sweat sets, yet instead of following a micro-trend, this comfy set prioritizes comfort and contemporary living. Similarly, this furoshiki wrapping cloth and Visvim’s market bag showcase how sashiko is utilized as a modern functional accessory.

One indispensable aspect of any evolving handicraft is its potential, in which sashiko is particularly rich. Sashiko is today used in any number of products from clothing, bags, accessories like sunglasses, jewellery, and shoes to home linen, like cushions, rugs, blankets, bedspreads, and wall art.

In these more waste-conscious times, sashiko is becoming more popular, embodying the quintessential culture of mottanai, the Japanese Philosophy of not having to waste anything.

8. Where Can I Buy Sashiko Clothing?

While individually stitching sashiko embroidery is quite the feat, those interested in implementing sashiko into their daily wardrobes may wonder how to get their hands on the ideal garment that checks all the boxes. While sashiko garments are readily available in brick-and-mortar shops and department stores across Japan, sourcing the perfect piece can be challenging for those outside the country. Yet, as sashiko gains popularity on a global scale, discovering a bespoke sashiko garment is now just a click away.

Sashiko Hanten Jacket, available at Japan Objects

For example, If a garment’s durability and practicality are of the utmost importance, consider this Sashiko Hanten Padded Jacket for an added layer of warmth on chilly mornings. Hanten jackets are known for their blanket-life feel, and wearers will notice how quality and design elements are prioritized, such as handmade sashiko stitching and the soft Kurume cotton padding.

On your next visit to Japan, plan a visit to the lesser-known Sashiko Museum of Akie Sakamoto. Walk into the 200-year-old house in the tiny village of Hinohara, located in Tokyo's outskirts, which offers spectacular mount Fuji views filled with Sakamoto's Sashiko treasures; vintage yukatas, bags, jewellery, wall hangings, apparels with a selection available for purchase.

Over the years, sashiko's resurgence has seen even fashion veterans like Issey Miyake use sashiko in his collections, and it has appeared on the runway for Maison Margiela. If fashion is a barometer of the culture in which it’s born then truly Japanese sashiko embroidery is one traditional craft skill that is on the up.

Sashiko mending sometimes requires knotting the thread before sewing the cloth, but there are different schools of thought, predominately based on the type of fabric in use. Denim for instance can handle any thickness of thread, whereas a more delicate vintage cloth might rip if the thread is not right. If the thread is not knotted, the material is held together by reversing and double-overlaying stitches.

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