What is Boro? 6 Things to Know about the Japanese Patchwork Textile

by Michele Tanabe | CRAFT

Boro Hanten Padded Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

When the word patchwork comes to mind, most think of quilting or mending that stubborn hole in a favorite pair of pants. However, beyond the conventional notion of patchwork lies a fascinating world that weaves together threads of history, artistry and a profound appreciation for the enduring beauty of imperfection. Welcome to the realm of Japanese boro, a traditional patchwork textile that transcends the simple act of mending. But what makes the art of boro so captivating and what can it teach us? Let’s dive in!

1. What is Boro?

© Domaine de Boisbuchet, Boro: The Fabric of Life, 2013

The original Japanese term boro (ぼろ, 襤褸) carried the meaning of rag, scrap or tattered clothing. However, in the world of textiles, it signifies a traditional craft rooted in the art of patchwork, where layered and mended materials were used to repair, reinforce or recreate garments. This resourceful practice of meticulous stitching and the artful combination of layers became a hallmark of rural Japan, where fabrics and textiles were scarce commodities. This remarkable craft not only embodies the sentiment to always find use in the items around you but also carries within it a rich history that intersects with the cultural practices of modern-day Japan. Its meaning can often defy boundaries within fashion, art, collector, and craft communities, which makes it all the more fascinating.

2. What are the Origins and History of Boro in Japan?

While the first uses of boro remain a mystery, it’s generally agreed that the technique was practiced throughout the Edo period (1603-1868) and well into the Meiji era (1868-1912). When boro first became popularized, nobles and the upper class often wore higher-quality textiles, such as silk and fine cotton. Rules regulating colors of fabric and styles of garments were also enforced, further widening the gap between the classes. As a result, working-class people had to become resourceful in how they utilized the textiles they had. Boro emerged organically as a way for individuals to repurpose and extend the life of their garments, transforming scarce textiles into artful patchwork representations of resilience and resourcefulness.

3. What are the Different Types of Boro?

Sashiko Boro

When discussing the art of boro it’s impossible not to mention sashiko. But how do the two relate? Sashiko is an embroidery technique that involves stitching decorative patterns and designs onto fabric. This elaborate stitching style was often used as a way to reinforce or repair clothing, especially in the Edo period, thus it’s no surprise that this stitching style was often found woven into boro textiles. This type of stitching was purposely made visible on boro garments and many suspect it was designed to add decorative flair to the garment. Sashiko tends to come hand in hand with boro as it was one of the more reliable stitching techniques used for patching. For more in-depth insights on sashiko, check out 7 Things to Know About Japanese Embroidery.

Shonai Boro

This type of boro finds its roots in the picturesque Shonai region of Yamagata Prefecture. Shonai boro stands out for its gorgeous indigo-dyed textiles and intricate designs enhanced by the artful sashiko stitching. The harsh winters in the Shonai region necessitated garments that were not only aesthetically pleasing but also durable and insulating. In contrast to other regions in Japan, where the cost of dyes posed a challenge, indigo dyeing emerged as a prevalent and economically viable choice during the Edo period. This led to the prominence of indigo-dyed textiles, not only in Shonai boro, but also in various other styles across the country, further solidifying the significance of indigo in Japanese textile traditions.

Hishizashi Boro

Hishizashi boro is a distinct type of boro that uses a “diamond stitch” or hishizashi. This requires layering patches of fabric over the area that needs to be mended and employing the hishizashi stitch by sewing the shape of a diamond by hand. This technique can be done in rows or just as a singular diamond-shaped motif. The hishizashi stitch aids in reinforcing fabric pieces together while adding a stylish dimension to the garment.

Boro Garmets and Household Items

While there are different methods and sewing techniques within boro, its main use is to patch and mend garments. Some of the most popular items still collected today are boro donza, or quilted working coats. Donza can include garments such as kaimaki, a plush cotton kimono used for work or nightwear; dotera, a generously padded oversized kimono intended for everyday use; and tanzen, a longer kimono with additional boro patching. Other items include innerwear, children's clothing and work pants.

Boro has extended beyond clothing, becoming an essential practice for reviving worn-out everyday household items. From well-loved futons and bedclothes to carpets, tabi socks, aprons, cleaning cloths, and even diapers, boro techniques and patching are skillfully employed to breathe new life into these functional objects.

4. What are the Key Elements of Boro Stitching?

The key element of boro stitching, especially when discussed in a historical context, is a process that often spanned many generations. Items were passed down from different family members, with more mending added along the way. Nonetheless, when starting anew, the material selection was made by choosing worn textiles or scraps in fabrics such as cotton or hemp. The pieces of fabric were then prepared by being washed thoroughly to remove dirt and stains, and then cut into the desired shape for the mending project. Then came the arrangement of the patchwork design. This step was hinged upon the mender’s preference as to how the pieces should be layered, and great care was taken to ensure that the fabric properly covered the area that needed mending. One can deduct from viewing antique garments that this process was well thought out and the results of these artful decisions are breathtaking.

Once the patches were placed in their desired locations, the mending began by hand. The mender would sew a contrasting color thread (usually white on indigo-dyed fabric) into the layered patch and straight through the fabric surrounding the damaged area. Often a straight stitch was employed, but other popular stitching techniques such as decorative sashiko or hishizashi were used to stitch the pieces together and reinforce weak areas.

5. How Can I Try Boro at Home?

With all the buzz around boro, you may be wondering how you can try it at home. Fortunately, there are numerous ways to jump into this sustainable craft, some of which are just a Google search away! For starters, it’s important to know what types of supplies are necessary as well as how to do a simple stitch. This thorough tutorial by Lynn Woll at Create Whimsy is a great place to start. It offers insightful information on how to begin implementing boro techniques immediately, with visual step-by-step instructions.

For those who prefer hitting the books, consider looking into The Book of Boro by Susan Briscoe. This designer and textile artist explores the historical aspects of boro, details the materials and supplies needed for crafting modern-day boro and also includes numerous projects to try at home.

On your DIY patching journey you may strive to create something that looks similar to vintage boro garments. If so, check Etsy for fabric patch bundles like this one, and soon enough, with a bit of practice, you’ll be a boro patchwork pro!

6. Where Can I Buy Boro Garments?

Boro garments can be statement pieces, adding a unique touch to your wardrobe. Fortunately, the fashion industry tends to draw inspiration from the past, and many contemporary fashion houses are incorporating boro into their designs. For online options, the renowned Japanese designer Kapital, known for its expertise in denim and textile artistry, pays homage to boro with this unique spring jacket. For a fusion of tradition and modernity, Japan Object’s Hanten Padded Jacket is an excellent choice. This lovingly handmade jacket takes inspiration from Kurume City’s famous cotton-weaning techniques, delivering both warmth and comfort while celebrating the beauty of boro.

Another great brand that draws inspiration from traditional Japanese textiles is Kiriko. Rooted in the Japanese concept of mottanai, which emphasizes the value of avoiding waste and repurposing objects, Kiriko embraces boro as a central element in their wide range of products. With a commitment to sustainability, this “no fabric waste” brand offers a great choice for those seeking to support smaller-scale companies while making eco-conscious fashion choices.

For collectors, there are quite a few places to procure beautiful antique boro pieces for display, such as eBay and Etsy. However, Helmn, an online marketplace specializing in antique Japanese textiles, has quite a few boro garments for sale in fantastic condition that are worth looking into.

If you happen to find yourself in Japan, exploring local markets and neighborhoods that specialize in textiles is a great way to discover hidden gems with beautiful boro designs. Cities like Tokyo and Kyoto have a great selection of second-hand clothing stores, flea markets and fabric quarters. It’s only a matter of time before you stumble upon a treasure with a story to tell.

July 14, 2022 | Craft, Fashion

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