Tango Chirimen: 7 Best Places Along Kyoto’s Silk Road

by Jessica Esa | TRAVEL

When it comes to the finest Japanese silk production, you might know that Kyoto is the very epicenter of silk production and phenomenal design. But did you know that some of the best Japanese silk comes from the historic region of Tango, on the northern coast of Kyoto prefecture?

Tango makes a great day-trip from Kyoto. We’ll show you where to find the world-famous Tango chirimen silk, and what else you can do while you’re exploring Kyoto prefecture’s old silk road.

Silk Making in Kyoto

The tradition of silk weaving in Kyoto can be traced right back to the 5th century, with the Yasushi family who brought the skills to Japan from China. Since then, the Nishijin district of Kyoto where they were based has been the central hub of the silk-weaving industry in Japan, lending its name to the style of textiles: Nishijin-ori.

Silk weaving was an integral part of the arts culture of Kyoto for 1300 years until the social upheavals of the Meiji restoration in the 19th century left Nishijin with very few customers to create their silks for. In response to the modernization of Japan, and in order to survive, the industry was modernized with Western European weaving machinery and methods. You can find out more about this time in Everything You Need to Know About Japanese Art.

© Tatsumura Textiles at Japan Objects Store

This modernization of the industry led to the formation of several innovative companies, including the still-thriving Tatsumura Textiles, who both restore and reproduce traditional Nishijin-ori for their modern clients including ancient thousand-year old silks stored in the Shosoin Repository of Todaiji Temple.

A little north of Kyoto, the Tango region has been weaving silk from cocoons for centuries and supplying it to Nishijin manufacturers. The Tamiya family of Tango are one family of traditional silk weavers who have even fashioned their own design methods such as using shell-inlay on their kimono for a unique effect (find out more in 9 Must-See Japanese Masterpieces of Japanese Kimono). The Tango region of Kyoto is a far lesser-known than Nishijin, and yet its history and production is every bit as incredible.

Where is Tango, Kyoto Prefecture?

Those interested in exploring the hidden sites of Kyoto’s silk road can do no better than exploring the Tango region on the northern coast to Kyoto prefecture; an area perfect for silk production due to its rainy and humid climate. A long and dedicated history of silk production existed here long before they began to specialize in the Tango Chirimen, a high-quality silk fabric produced exclusively in the area.

What is Chirimen?

Chirimen is a Japanese textile made of flat woven silk; it’s also often known as silk-crepe. The way it’s created is quite unique: untwisted raw silk is weaved with raw silk wefts that have been twisted around 3,000-4,000 times per meter. The yarn is then compressed and refined to remove impurities; a process which also untwists the raw silk, bringing out the signature bumpy texture, known as shibo.

Chirimen fabric is primarily used for kimono, it differs from other kimono silk in that it is less prone to wrinkling due to the production techniques; and also feels much softer on the skin. It’s also incredibly durable and such high quality that the silk can be dyed many times. Additionally, due to the bumpy texture of the fabric, the silk diffuses light in a different way, making for a deeper overall tone. A kimono made with chirimen can be incredibly expensive due to its durability and richness of color.

You’ll find chirimen and these traditional techniques being used for other products including book covers, home furnishings, and fashion accessories. The toughness of the fabric lends itself well to creating hard-wearing everyday items. The video above showcases many of the techniques that are used when working with this most luxurious of Japanese textiles.

How did Chirimen Weaving Come to Tango, Kyoto?

© Tango Textile Industry Cooperative Association

Today, the Tango region produces the largest amount of silk in all of Japan, with a third of raw silk produced being used here to create Tango chirimen. Over 60% of the silk for Japan’s kimono is produced here. The chirimen method of weaving is thought to have come from China in the sixteenth century, first to Osaka before being introduced to the Nishijin weaving district. Notable figures like Kinuya Saheji from the Tango district apprenticed at Kyoto Nishijin during the Edo period and brought the techniques back to the region, creating the local industries that still thrive here today.

Chirimen silk is primarily produced in Tango and it’s considered one of the highest quality form of silk. Every single piece of cloth is inspected closely by hand using traditional methods to ensure absolute and consistent quality. Any silk that reaches their highest standards is then stamped with a local production mark stating that it is ‘Tango Chirimen’; a great mark of pride and status.

What to Do in Tango, Kyoto?

If you’d like to visit some of the notable silk sites within the Tango region, learn more about the area and its history, and purchase some bespoke silk products for yourself, then look no further. Here are some of the most fascinating silk-related places to visit in Tango.

1. Tayuh Textile Co. Ltd.

One of the first places to go if you want to learn about silk production, and to see the undyed fabric and raw silk being made, is Tayuh Textile. There, you can take one of their free factory tours.

Within this building they do everything from making the threads from silk cocoons and dyeing the fabrics to manufacturing and selling the fabrics; it all happens here. It takes 3,000 silk cocoons to make a single kimono so the level of work undertaken here, and the dedication to the craft and its methods, is astounding, to say the least.

The factory has been in business since 1830 and is largely still using the same techniques, so you’ll be able to see fifty of the original Jacquard looms brought over during the Edo period at work. They also have a showroom of silk products, a shop selling everything from silk cosmetics to silk off-cuts and finished products, and a beautiful garden: the Garden of Hosenju, designed by the late Shigemori Mirei, legendary Japanese landscape artist.

Address: Asamogawa 112, Amino-cho, Kyotango-shi, Kyoto (see map)

Website: tayuh.jp

Tours: To make factory tour reservations, call (+81) 0772-72-0307 or submit an online form

Hours: 8:30am to 6pm (Closed Sat and Sun)

Transport: Nearest Station - Amino Station (Kyoto Tango Railway)

2. Kotohira Jinja Shrine (Kyotango, Kyoto)

Established in 1811, the shrine is dedicated to Konpira, the god who protects sailors, fishermen, and navy personnel. It’s a special shrine that’s very much integral to the silk-making heritage of Tango.

The secondary shrine, Kishima Shrine found within, is the only Shinto shrine in Japan to feature koma-neko cat guardian statues. They were donated in 1832 by silk merchants and wholesalers such as the Tonomura family who were textile merchants from Higashi-Omi, Shiga Prefecture. Cats protected the silk farms from rats who would eat and destroy the silk cocoons and finished products, so they became the silk god’s helper.

The shrine suffered due to the Kita Tango Earthquake that struck the Tango area in 1927. However, still remaining today are ornate paintings of Tango before the earthquake and the grand float festival held there over one-hundred years ago.

Tip: In Kyoto city, you’ll also find Konoshima Shrine (木嶋神社) which honors the guardian/protector of the silk industry.

Address: Izumi 1165-2, Mineyama-cho, Kyotango-shi, Kyoto (see map)

Website: konpirasan.com

Transport: 800 meters from Mineyama Station (Kyoto Tango Railway).

3. Chirimen Road

Chirimen Road (Chirimen Kaido ちりめん街道) is a pleasure to walk down whether you’re interested in following Kyoto’s silk road or you simply love the historic atmosphere of small towns with traditional architecture. The silk manufacturing area is in the former castle town of Yosana. As it was a castle town (during the Sengoku Jidai), many of the streets have sharp, narrow turns or corners used to defend against invading enemies. These days, it certainly makes for a dynamic walk.

The best starting point is Kaya Town Hall which was built in the 1930s and from where you can walk through the neighborhood of buildings, now a traditional township preservation district. This area largely escaped the 1927 earthquake so there are many historic buildings to explore.

Transport: From Yosano Station (Kyoto Tango Railway), take a 20-minute bus (Yosanoeki Bus Stop 与謝線与謝行) or taxi to Chirimen Kaido (see map)

Some of the main points to explore include:

4. Former Bito Family Merchant's House

On the main Chirimen Road, you can find the former Bito Family Merchant's House. The Bito family was a raw silk and chirimen wholesaler during the Edo Period; a prominent and rich local family who also became active in local government and business during the Meiji Period. Originally a farmhouse it was built and then expanded between 1863 to 1930, its architecture is particularly surreal as part of the house’s exterior is made in a western-style. Even inside, you’ll find the downstairs is created in a traditional Japanese style whereas the upstairs gives the feeling of stepping into Georgian England with fine furnishings and carpets, despite looking over a Japanese garden below!

Address: Kaya 1085, Yosano-cho, Yosano-gun, Kyoto (see map)

Website: tangochirimen.jp

Hours: 9am to 5pm (enter by 4:30pm) Closed Mon (unless it’s a national holiday, then it will close on Tue instead). Closed Dec. 29–Jan. 3.

Admission: ¥200

Transport: From Yosano Station (Kyoto Tango Railway), take a 20-minute bus (Yosanoeki Bus Stop 与謝線与謝行) or taxi to Chirimen Kaido.

5. Tango Chirimen History Museum

Housed in a former textile factory, this museum will take you through the history of Tango chirimen and silk making. With its distinctive saw-like roof, it almost doesn’t fit in with the rest of the neighborhood but inside it celebrates everything the region has achieved throughout the years. Visitors can see rare kimonos and even buy and try on kimono, amongst other accessories available to buy there. You can even create your own silk goods here including coasters and take part in other silk-related experiences. It’s a fascinating place and a great way to really learn about the region.

If you are interested to buy or rent kimono during your time in Kyoto, take a look at our 15 top suggestions for where to do that in the city.

Address: 226, Omiyachokuchiono, Kyotango-shi, Kyoto Omiya (see map)

Website: tangochirimen.jp

Hours: 9am to 5pm (enter by 4:30pm), free admission

Transport: 10 minutes drive or from 30 minutes walk from Chirimen Kaido

6. Yoshimura Shouten

A silk manufacturer and wholesaler, Yoshimura has been selling undyed chirimen fabric and raw silk since 1830. They work in a beautiful traditional house overlooking a fine garden while using traditional methods for checking the silk fabric for quality by hand. They also create unique reproductions of popular designs on the fabric and can make custom-ordered patterns. Yoshimura sells fabric to individuals and also small finished products like towels, cushion covers, and various accessories. Within you’ll also see a beautiful storehouse called kura where they store their fabrics. It’s fireproof and earthquake-proof and features protective symbols on the front.

Address: Naniwa 17, Mineyama-cho, Kyotango-shi (see map)

Website: yoshimura-shouten.jp

Hours: 9am to 5pm

Transport: A ten-minute taxi ride from Mineyama Station (Kyoto Tango Railway)

7. Kuska Tango

Another great place to find Tango Chirimen silk textiles is back in Kyoto city center at the store of Kuska Tango. Tango native Yasuhiko Tsuji started the brand to bring the beauty of local silk to world in the form of highly covetable modern fashion. And if you don’t manage to visit while you’re in Kyoto, don’t worry, you can visit their online store instead!

Address: 458-1 Jumonjicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto (see map)

Website: kuska.jp