Kimono Fabric: 9 Things to Know About Japanese Silk

by Jes Kalled | CRAFT

Japanese Silk Haori Jacket, Available at Japan Objects Store

Silk is said to be the strongest natural textile in the world. Sericulture, the industry of silk making and raising silkworms/caterpillars, can be found in countries around the globe. But where did this practice come from, and how is silk particular to Japan? What makes it a Japanese object? Here is everything you need to know about Japanese silk in history, art, and fashion.

Contents

1. When Did Silk Arrive in Japan?
2. Where Does Japanese Silk Come From?
3. How are Japanese Silk Products Made?
4. How do Japanese Kimono Use Silk?
5. What Other Fashion Accessories Use Japanese Silk?
6. How Else Can Japanese Silk Be Used?
7. How is Silk Used in the Tea Ceremony?
8. How to Take Care of Japanese Silk?
9. Have a Go Yourself: Silk Painting in Kyoto!

1. When Did Silk Arrive in Japan?

Vintage Japanese Silk Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

The discovery and spread of silk across the world has been retold in many stories. Legend states that Chinese Empress Leizu (also known as Xi Ling Shi) accidentally discovered silk in 2700 BCE when a cocoon dropped from the Mulberry tree into hot water - she soon found she could unravel the silk thread from the cocoon and had the idea to weave it.

For thousands of years the secrets of silk remained hidden in China. Any sharing of said silk secrets was punishable by death. Consequently, the practice of the harvesting silkworms whilst still in their cocoons to make a highly industrialized product did not leave China’s borders for many, many years. Silk did eventually make its way to Japan around the 4th century, and has since been renewed and adapted, taking on new shape and caliber in the form of textiles, kimonos, and various forms of clothing, accessories, and art. Perhaps most unmistakable are the distinct practices of weaving and dyeing silk that contributes to a visual culture many know and recognize in Japan today.

2. Where Does Japanese Silk Come From?

There are four types of silk used across the world: Mulberry silk, Eri silk, Tussar silk and Muga silk, with Mulberry being the most commonly used in Japan and elsewhere as it creates the softest fabric. About 90% of the world’s silk comes from the mulberry silkworm.

Eri silk is popular in India, China, Japan, and Thailand and comes from the eri caterpillar. You will generally see Buddhist monks across Asia, including Japan, wearing clothes made from eri silk due to the peaceful process used in obtaining the silk from the caterpillars.

3. How are Japanese Silk Products Made?

I. Kyoto Silk Brocade (Nishijin Ori)

Tortoiseshell Obi Belt, available at Japan Objects Store

This is the highest quality silk product available in Japan. The name Nishijin comes from a district of Kyoto which no longer exists. Go there today and you’ll find the Kamigyo and Kita wards in its place. Nishijin brocade, because of their high quality and deep history, are used to create the best quality kimono fabric and obi, as well as wallets and purses, costumes for noh theatre, and festival decorations.

Silk Nishijin Kimono by Tatsumura Textile

One modern company that has been weaving Nishijin brocade textiles since the Meiji Restoration is Tatsumura Textile. They have produced products for Emperor Hirohito himself and are valued as the great modern weavers of Nishijin Ori.

II. Kyo-Yuzen

Kyo-Yuzen isn’t a technique for weaving silk, but rather one of painting elaborate and colorful patterns onto silk. It’s an art that can be traced back to the Edo period, and is the primary method of dyeing kimono to produce finished products of deep and vivid color.

What makes yuzen distinct from other cloth dyeing techniques is the fact that it is done by hand. Yuzen artists - the first of which was Miyazaki Yuzen Sai, after whom the technique was named - hand-paint delicate and elaborate images onto silk kimono fabric, permanently dying the silk with each brush stroke. It is a delicate procedure but one that produces some of the most elaborately stunning kimono in Japan. To learn more, here are 5 Things You Should Know About Yuzen Kimono.

III. Chirimen Silk

Another prominent technique in Japanese silk production is chirimen, a Japanese textile made of flat woven silk (also often known as silk-crepe). It’s primarily used for kimono and home textiles as it’s a particularly durable fabric and such high-quality silk that it can be dyed several times. It is created by weaving raw silk with raw silk wefts that have been twisted around 3,000-4,000 times per meter. The yarn is then compressed and untwisted bringing out the signature bumpy texture, known as shibo. One of the most famous areas for chirimen production is the Tango region of Kyoto. There are some great spots in the area where you can see this famous silk being produced: check out these 7 Best Places Along Kyoto’s Silk Road.

Clematis Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Chirimen silk is often used to reproduce the symbols associated with Japan such as kanzashi, an ornament used to adorn the hair—like a barrette or hairpin. In Japan, typically these are depicted in designs of flowers, to go with a matching kimono print or pattern.

IV. Tsumugi and Omeshi

Men’s Tsumugi Silk Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

For some Japanese silk products, especially those created for men, such as men’s kimono, a plain design is favoured. Instead of a painted or embroidered pattern, such products often rely on the look of the textile itself for decoration. Two distinctive Japanese silk weaves, Tsumugi and Omeshi, are perhaps the most popular. Tsumugi is handspun from silk threads of different lengths and thicknesses, resulting in a pleasing rustic texture. Omeshi is a smoother, glossier weave, that often features a dignified pattern.

Tsumugi is one of the most time consuming techniques in silk making is that of Tsumugi. There are a variety of styles of Tsumugi, depending on the district in the country. However, regardless of region, the nature of this process is labor intensive, and the appearance of the final product has a rustic and individualistic appeal.

Tsumugi is thought to be casual and for everyday life. A Tsumugi kimono has a woven design, and is dyed before the weaving begins. It is said that the longer a Tsumugi kimono is worn, the softer and more supple it becomes.

The classic technique of Omeshi produces fine, smooth but heavy products that are considered the most luxurious of them all.

4. How do Japanese Kimono Use Silk?

Men’s Silk Nagajuban Robe, available at Japan Objects Store

Japanese silk textiles are used to weave a variety of elaborate objects, from noh theatre costumes to festival decorations, but the most iconic and elegant silk objects are, without question, the kimono and its accompanying obi sash.

I. Silk Kimono

Vintage Silk Kimono, available at Japan Objects Store

Is there anything more iconic when it comes to silk creations than the kimono? With its uniform silhouette and dazzling traditional patterns that vary by season, going much further than cherry blossom for spring. Kimono designs can even symbolise calendar events and important dates. The diversity of the kimono as a statement fashion piece and wearable work of art has made it one of the most desirable silk objects still prized to this day. To help you understand these the varieties of kimono fabrics, take a look at the 19 Traditional Japanese Kimono Patterns You Should Know.

II. Silk Haori Jacket

Vintage Silk Haori Jacket, available at Japan Objects Store

Haori Jackets are light kimono jackets originally designed to be worn over a kimono. They can bring a splash of color to a quieter outfit, or play counterpart to other vibrant patterns and hues. Because of the light silk fabric and loose cut, they can actually be work over just about any outfit from a summer T-shirt, to a thick wooly winter sweater!

Men’s Silk Haori Jacket, available at Japan Object Store

Haori gives off an effortless, fashionable look, adding some color and design to one’s outfit. Despite its almost casual nature, the gloss of silk haori with its patterns and recognizable Japanese designs give off an air of elegance.

III. Silk Obi Belt

Silk Obi Belt, available at Japan Objects Store

Obi are an integral part of the kimono, but are often of a slightly different colour and style to the main garment. Women’s obi are far larger than men’s, and are thus much closer in size and style to a sash, wrapped around the waist in a bow-like knot, while a men’s obi is more belt-like. Just like the kimono garment, obi are often painted in deep colours of reds, blues, golds, and blacks, and are decorated with intricate floral patterns.

5. What Other Fashion Accessories Use Japanese Silk?

Kyo-Yuzen Silk Clutch, available at Japan Objects Store

Silk fashion accessories make for the most timeless pieces, adding effortless style and class to any outfit. Here are some of our favorite silk accessories:

I. Kyo-Yuzen Silk Clutch

This elegant clutch was handcrafted in Kyoto by Tomoko Fujii of Ritofu and demonstrates the refined kyo-yuzen technique of hand painting kimono fabric established in the 17th century. Unique to Kyoto, this method is associated with a luxurious texture which makes this piece a joy to touch as well as look at.

II. Kiku Silk Brocade Clutch

Kiku Silk Brocade Clutch, available at Japan Objects Store

A special clutch that recreates the abstract Okiku Momi tapestry housed in Koetsuji Temple in Kyoto. Designed by Tatsumura Textile who specializes in the restoration of priceless ancient Japanese and Chinese textiles, they’re Kyoto’s esteemed leader in world-class silk brocades and this tasteful clutch is a testament to their passion.

6. How Else Can Japanese Silk Be Used?

Not just for fashion accessories, there are many ways to incorporate timeless silk products and exquisite Japanese fabrics into your everyday life.

I. Silk Leather Wallet

Koge Silk Brocade Wallet, available at Japan Objects Store

This Tatsumura Textile wallet is inspired by the Koge Bachiru no Shaku, a carved ivory ruler stained red found in the Todaiji temple in Nara. Lined with high-quality leather and featuring an intricately decorated silk exterior created with the Nishiki method which employs as many as ten weft threads. The skilled craftsman have perfectly captured the contrasting colors, birds, floral patterns, and beasts of the original artwork; this is a striking everyday item to be proud of.

II. Silk Travel Makeup Bag

Oshidori Silk Brocade Travel Makeup Bag, available at Japan Objects Store

A luxurious place to store your cosmetics, this bag is a faithful recreation by Tatsumura Textile of an 8th-century ancient textile currently stored in the Todaiji temple in Nara. Also using the Nishiki method, the silk brocade showcases an elaborate mandarin duck design on arabesque tapestry.

III. Silk Painting

Silk painting at the Kyoto Shibori Museum

There are several methods of Japanese silk painting but the key factor is layering paint over silk to create stunning artwork, from recreations of Japanese paintings to calligraphy. Kyo-yuzen, very much associated with kimono dyeing, was invented during the 17th century and requires immense skill and craftsmanship due to the precise nature of the art. Other methods of silk painting include the serti technique which uses water-resistant barriers to keep the inks in place and similarly the Gutta method uses water-based resins for the design method. Perhaps one of the most popular methods internationally is the shibori technique which is similar to tie-dying and uses fast-drying dye to create traditional blue and white patterns and designs. Here are the 5 Things You Should Know About Japanese Shibori Dyeing.

IV. Furoshiki

One of the most diverse products made from Japanese silk, the furoshiki is traditionally used to wrap presents in Japan, the cloth then being returned to the owner after the gift-giving is complete. It was originally called tsutsumi (wrapping) for this reason, but it can also easily be used to create fashionable bags that carry everything from your shopping to a yoga mat. Designs range from the abstract to sprawling landscapes, or seasonal and traditional patterns and are often used as wall hangings due to their beauty. To find out everything you need to know about Furoshiki, check out Furoshiki: How to Choose the Best Japanese Wrapping Cloth!

V. Silk Fans

Silk Fan with Summer Flowers by Katsushika Isai

Synonymous with Japanese culture, at once a stylish fashion accessory and a practical item for keeping cool there’s no more recognizable icon than the Japanese silk fan. With roots in fashion, theatre, and etiquette, originally tools of aristocrats and samurai, silk fans are traditionally handcrafted and hand painted with two types of traditional-style readily available. Firstly, the uchiwa, a fixed oval-shaped fan which has been a popular souvenir since the Edo period or the sensu which is the instantly recognizable folded fan design. To find out more, learn about the 5 Things You Should Know About Traditional Japanese Fans.

7. How is Silk Used in the Tea Ceremony?

The tea ceremony is an integral activity within Japanese society which involves the preparation and serving of matcha tea, and was heavily influenced by the ways of Zen Buddhism. While tea ceremonies use wood or metal chawan (bowls) and wooden whisks, there are also a few silk products that are used in the traditional tea ceremony.

I. Coasters

We all know that coasters are used with hot drinks all over the world, especially when the surface you’re using is wooden, which, when it comes to the tea ceremony, it always is. But the silk coasters are particularly beautiful, displaying intricate patterns and shapes in a blend of intensely vibrant colors, not unlike those seen on kimono.

II. Sukiya Bags

In tea ceremony, a sukiya bag is a traditional clutch bag is used to carry various objects, including kaishi paper and the fukusa purifying cloth. These hand-sized clutch bags are often made using Japanese silk and, as such, are painted with beautiful soft colors of oranges, blues, and reds, decorated with cloud lining using the yuzen technique of silk dyeing.

8. How to Take Care of Japanese Silk?

As with all fine things, there comes an innate responsibility to take care of them well. One of the beauties of silk is that it is made to last long-term, a companion that will stay with you as long as you, in turn, take care of it properly.

I. How to Store Silk?

Kimono Hanger, available at Japan Objects Store

Silk is a high quality, delicate, soft material that should be stored in a moisture free environment. If storing for a long period of time, plastic should be avoided. Instead, consider placing your silk materials in a cotton bag that can breathe. Any moth balls, or any kind of perfume/scent should be avoided. Additionally, silk should not be left in direct sunlight for long periods of time.

If you would like to put away your silk kimono, check out our video on How to Fold Kimono!

II. How to Wash Silk?

Arguably the best way to clean silk is to hand wash in cold or luke-warm water with very little made-for-delicates liquid detergent or other mild soap. The most important point is to handle the material with care. A drier should never be used because too much heat can damage the fabric. After washing, the silk can be pressed on a flat surface with a towel to soak up the water, then left to hang in a dry, non-humid environment. Any wrinkles should smooth out naturally if hung properly. Twisting or wringing dry the garment can damage the fabric, so it should always be left to dry on its own.

9. Have a Go Yourself: Silk Painting in Kyoto!

If you’ve ever found yourself captivated by the color and design of kimono and obi, there are classes in Kyoto which can teach you those skills of yuzen and shibori painting and dyeing so that you can understand the process and even master it for yourself.

Marumasu Nishimuraya Yuzen Class: In downtown Kyoto, try out Kyo-Yuzen dyeing for yourself within a traditional Japanese classic wooden house. You’ll use stencils, with guidance from teachers, to create something completely unique and beautiful whatever your skill level.

Kyoto Shibori Museum Classes: If you’re interested in learning the art of shibori then a visit to the museum is the ideal way to learn and you’ll even leave with a silk dyed scarf of your own creation or you can choose the furoshiki class. There’s also a museum and shop to indulge in afterwards.