What are Kanzashi? 13 Things to Know about Japanese Hairpins

by Teni Wada | CRAFT

Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

When it comes to decorative hairpins, some of the most intricate, well crafted, and colourful are the traditional Japanese floral hairpins, known as kanzashi, that are used to be associated with geisha and brides. But these elegant Japanese hair accessories are taking up their place in fashion once more. Find out about the fascinating history behind these beautiful pieces, how they’re made and where to find one of your own!

Contents

1. What are Kanzashi?
2. Where did Kanzashi Come From?
3. Is it True that Kanzashi Were Once Used as Weapons?
4. What Types of Kanzashi are There?
5. How are Hana Kanzashi Made?
6. What Materials are Used to Make Kanzashi?
7. Are Kanzashi Still Worn Today in Japan?
8. Who Wears Kanazashi?
9. When are Kanzashi Worn?
10. How do I Choose the Right Kanazashi for my Kimono?
11. How to Wear a Kanzashi?
12. Can I wear a Kanazashi with Western Clothes?
13. Where Can I Buy Kanzashi?

1. What are Kanzashi?

Sakura Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Kanzashi are hair accessories that are often ornate and beautifully detailed, consisting of a metal or wooden base adorned with silk accents. However, kanzashi can be any stick-like object with a pointed tip used to hold a hairstyle in place. The character 簪 contains the bamboo radical, reflecting the fact that hairpins in China were originally made predominantly of bamboo.

2. Where did Kanzashi Come From?

Kanzashi are central to traditional hairstyles

The hairpins known as kanzashi originated in the Heian period of a thousand years ago, when women started wearing their hair in elaborate coiffed designs, rather than the long, straight taregami style favoured until that point.

Mentioned in The Tale of Genji and poetry through the ages, kanzashi have a long history and culture behind them. They became particularly popular in the later Edo period from about the 17th century, when more people had access to them and new styles were created.

3. Is it True that Kanzashi Were Once Used as Weapons?

Considering that kanzashi are long, sharp objects that can be discreetly concealed in one’s hair, it’s no stretch of the imagination that these items could have been used to ward off attackers and assassinate political adversaries!

However, the original kanzashi were simple wooden hair pins worn as a talisman to ward off evil. Later, Chinese cultural influence in the 8th century led to the rise of ornamental kanzashi, which were crafted from metals, such as gold and silver.

As kanazashi grew in popularity, laws were passed that prohibited carrying them into the homes of the shogun, as their pointy tips made them a potentially lethal weapon!

4. What Types of Kanzashi are There?

Clematis Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Here’s are a selection of the most popular Japanese hairpins that you’ll likely come across:

Tama-Kanzashi: A cute and simple pin and one of the most popular, it features a stick with a ball at the end that may be carved or plain. It can be used in a multitude of ways and always looks elegant.

Kanoko Dome: Usually rounded or in a tube shape and made of fabric decorated with everything from pearls to gems, and flowers. A maiko would traditionally wear this at the back of the wareshinobu hairstyle.

Kushi: Often used in conjunction with hana kanzashi, the kushi simply means comb and are often made from wood. They slot into the hair easily and keep things in place. They are often decorated with gems or silk flowers.

Ogi: Known as princess-style, these pins are usually made of metal and in a fan shape, you’ll often find imprints and engravings on the fan and decorative dangling pieces attached.

Carnation Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Bira-bira: An eye-catching accessory, these pins will have dangling attachments which will sometimes include bells or metal pieces that clink gently in the wind.

Hana-kanzashi: A flamboyant style of kanzashi most commonly associated with maiko (trainee geisha) in Kyoto

5. How are Hana Kanzashi Made?

As with most traditional Japanese crafts, the process of creating handmade hana kanzashi is painstaking and requires a high level of skill and patience.

The flowers are traditionally created using the tsumami (pinching) method. Each individual square of silk is starched, pinched into a petal, and added to paste before being used to create a flower on a base attached to a wire rod. Each flower is then left to dry for 24-hours before getting their final decorations like coloured thread and white tips to bring the flower to life.

Once the flowers have been made, it’s time to bring them together to create the pin using low-twist coloured silk thread called hiro ito and wire. Interestingly, the thread differs depending on the flowers being used so for plum blossom pins you’ll find that red and yellow/green thread is used and pink thread for cherry blossom pins. Overall, this gives the pin its finished look and is a testament to the work that goes into each piece. Finally, last-minute adjustments will be made using tweezers, like angling the petals or adding bura, the attractive blossoms or leaves that dangle from some pins.

6. What Materials are Used to Make Kanzashi?

Blue Bellflower Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Kanzashi can be made from nearly any material ranging from wood, plated metals, tortoiseshell, and even plastic. The ornamental flowers used to decorate kanzashi are traditionally made using a high-quality plain-weave silk named habutae. However, these flowers have become increasingly hard to make as the traditional tools and starch needed are no longer readily available.

7. Are Kanzashi Still Worn Today in Japan?

Cherry Blossom Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

During the 19th century, with the rise of Western fashions and hairstyles, kanzashi began to fall out of favor. However, in the later 20th and now in the 21st century there’s been a great resurgence in popularity. Today you’ll find kanzashi in the elegant hairstyles of brides, geisha, yukata-clad festival attendees, and even party-goers!

Contemporary kanzashi fall into two categories: katsuyama, which are larger ornaments placed on top of the head and floral kanzashi pins; or dangling daikan hairpins, which are placed lower down.

8. Who Wears Kanazashi?

© Oharibako, Coordinating with Your Outfit

Kanzashi are most commonly associated with the geiko (geisha) of Kyoto, where the kanzashi is an indicator of one’s position and status. The trainee geisha, or maiko, wear multiple, colorful hairpieces whereas geisha style their hair with subdued kanzashi and hair combs.

Kanzashi beautifully compliment kimono and are worn as an accessory during special occasions such as weddings, Seijin-shiki (Coming of Age celebration) and Shichi-Go-San (an auspicious celebration marking a child’s third, fifth and seventh years of life).

9. When are Kanzashi Worn?

As the preferred hair ornament for kimono, kanzashi can be worn year round, whenever one chooses to wear a kimono or yukata (What’s the difference?), a ballgown, or jeans and T-shirt! However, the most popular months for kanzashi are January, which marks the New Year and Coming of Age Day; summer festivals in July and August; and November, which marks Shichi-Go-San.

If you’re interested in kimono, make sure you check out 30 Things You Need to Know About Japanese Kimono, and the 11 Essential Japanese Kimono Accessories You'll Need.

10. How do I Choose the Right Kanazashi for my Kimono?

Hana-kanzaashi in particular are decorative pieces used to reflect seasonal changes and the distinct flowers that bloom in each season. It is popular to choose a flower that matches the color scheme of your kimono, or a flower that coincides with the current season.

Here are the twelve months of the year and their corresponding flowers in Japanese culture:

January: As it’s the new year, January designs are full of colorful winter flowers and green leaves like chrysanthemums, ume blossoms, and bamboo.

February: Designs for February focus on welcoming in the spring and celebrating young love with lots of pink, white and red ume blossoms of different shades.

March: Happy, yellow hues abound in March as the narcissus, peony flowers and rapeseed are blooming.

April: It’s sakura season and cherry blossom flowers are the iconic staple of these beautiful hana kanzashi pins.

May: Denoting the height of springtime, purple and blue hues from irises, wisteria, and peonies are typical for this time of year.

June: As rainy season approaches, the trailing willow leaves make for attractive pins. You’ll also find hydrangeas dotted through the piece.

July: It’s summer festival season so you’ll find pins decorated with colourful fans, usually the round uchiwa style. The fans will often be decorated with petals and dragonflies. Find out more with these 5 Things You Should Know About Traditional Japanese Fans.

Lily Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

August: Taking out a pointy design, like a starburst, morning glory or susuki gras is used for these late summer designs. Geiko typically wear silver whereas Maiko will wear pink and red shades. Lilies are also popular!

September: Traditionally associated with fall, the purple and pink bellflower hana kanzashi will be seen in September. You may also find other fall flowers like chrysanthemum and bush clover being included.

October: Chrysanthemums represent the height of fall and red and pink shades are typically used in these late season pins.

November: With gorgeous yellow, red, and green hues, the maple leaves that trail these beautiful hana kazashi are some of the most eye-catching of the year.

December: The December kanzashi feature special adornments like blank Maneki, mochibana, or rice cake flowers. In Kyoto, the debut kabuki performances are shown in December and the Maneki notice boards feature the names of the performers. Geisha and Maiko often get their blank Maneki on their hairpiece signed at the Kagai Soken kabuki event.

11. How to Wear a Kanzashi?

Elaborate kanzashi are designed for nihongami, distinctive traditional hairstyles that are hardened and shaped with wax. Such hairstyles can take hours to style, and cause headaches and tension; however they are styled in such a manner which provides plenty of support for heavy kanzashi.

Luckily, you don’t need to go through this to wear kanzashi! In fact, kanzashi can be worn with almost any hairstyle as they’re purely decorative. They’re usually placed toward the back of the head, halfway down, and of the most popular ways to wear them is with an updo like a bun or tucked into pinned up curls.

The hana kanzashi adds a three-dimensional splash of colour and elegance to any style so get creative! If you have short hair then you can still use kanzashi, just pin up a portion of your hair and place the kanzashi on top.

12. Can I wear a Kanazashi with Western Clothes?

Purple Bellflower Kanzashi, available at Japan Objects Store

Certainly! There’s no denying that a cascading hana-kanzaashi would make for a stunning bridal hair accessory. Similarly, a hana-kanzashi adds a signature flair when worn in an updo at a dinner party or other social function. An equally stylish way to wear a hana-kanzashi is by repurposing as a brooch on your suit lapel.

13. Where Can I Buy Kanzashi?

As it happens, you can purchase a wide selection of luxury kanzashi from Kyoto artisan Oharibako right here in the Japan Objects Store!

Our Oharibako kanzashi are made from 100% crepe silk sourced from Kyo-Tango, the textile capital for the finest in Japanese silk.

Each kanzashi is handcrafted in-house, from dyeing and painting the silk, to shaping and pressing each silk petal to create an intricate flower. Exquisite details like the finishing floral bud and green leaf accents demonstrate the expertise and care put into each piece.

These kanzashi beautifully complement any hairstyle and can be used to accessorize a kimono, yukata, suit, or other formal clothing.

Our Clematis Kanzashi takes a playful, yet mature approach to pastels, signaling life and regeneration. Wear it as a brooch when attending a graduation ceremony or outdoor wedding in the spring, or as a hair accessory paired with a yukata worn at a summer festival.

On the other hand, the understated elegance of the Lily Kanzashi is a unique hair ideal accessory for a bride, flower girl, or bridesmaid. Likewise, its cool white tones beautifully compliment any of the vintage silk kimono in our store.

Lastly, carnations are the “official unofficial” flower for Mother's Day, making our Carnation Kanzashi an exceptional choice to show appreciation for the maternal figures in your life.